Val Pusteria
Stop at the border before you! You are in Italy and Austria just two steps away.
But if I’m asked to stop, I stop.
Not for a moment. For several days.
Yes, at least a week.
Val Pusteria in Italian, or Pustertal in German – in the local language.
The local language…yes, the greenest and northernmost valley on Italy’s border still preserves, by law, the original language – German. What’s more, it is one of the few valleys in the north that even maintains an additional, older language, Ladin, which has no relation to the Spanish Ladino. Ladin is a blend of Latin with the local language from about 2000 years ago.
The scenery, the air, the pace, the quality of life, the peace, the tranquility, the meal, and the hotel. A river flows through almost every town center, geraniums bloom in pots, and petunias spill from the balcony planters, presenting before your eyes the dream and its realization. Here is where I want to live.
The names of the towns, the menus in the restaurants, the surnames of the locals will testify:
first and foremost they are Austrians, before they are even residents of Italy. “The Germans are our ancestors…” they will say. Although the residents pay taxes to Italy, and the special budget given to each autonomous region in Italy comes from the government in Rome (a per capita budget that is 3 times the budget for every Italian resident not in such autonomous regions. There are 5 such regions in Italy) – they feel like German Austrians.
Nevertheless, beyond the identity issues of the locals, the entire area is a paradise or at least the gateway to paradise.
To reach this wonderful place, drive on the A22 highway towards Austria. Just before the border, take the Bressanone Val Pusteria exit. The road gradually winds, passing near the renovated castle Mühlbacher Klause
and after about 20 minutes you will arrive at the valley’s capital, the town of Brunico (or in German, Bruneck).
A small town whose historic center still maintains the same structure since it was founded in the 13th century by Prince Archbishop Bruno von Kirchberg. Two entrance gates at the end of the street and similar openings along the street lead to two rows of houses, creating a pleasant pedestrian zone perfect for a stroll, an ice cream break, and browsing through shops, reminiscent of the dense and close-knit architecture. At the end of the pedestrian area, you can visit the local castle (Castello di Brunico), which today is one of six museums that tell the story of the Alps in Italy and beyond.
Before continuing in the valley, you can take a cable car to the plan de corones (or in German, Kronplatz). An amazing site that offers breathtaking views both in summer and winter.
https://www.kronplatz.com/it/il-plan-de-corones
On the exit from the city, heading northeast, you can stop at the Ethnographic Museum of the town of Teodone.
The museum answers questions that often arise during a trip in this area: How did people live here? How do they survive in snowy winters? How do they harvest or gather on the slopes of the mountains? What games do children play when they are stuck at home for long periods during the winter? And more.
The museum is divided into three sections:
A two-story building that tells the story of the noble families of the valley and the way of life in stone houses.
The second structure, also two stories and made of wood, displays tools, equipment, photographs, and illustrations of the farmers’ work.
The third area, which is the museum’s courtyard, is a large space that includes several typical wooden buildings from the region that visitors can enter to understand how village people lived. A combination of bedrooms, kitchens, living rooms, animal shelters, and hay storage— all within one structure.
The museum provides an interesting glimpse into the lives of locals in the past.
https://www.volkskundemuseum.it/it/
On the other side of the valley, a half-hour drive away, lies the town of San Candido.
In the center of the town stands the oldest church in the valley, the Collegiata di San Candido, which started construction in the eighth century and was completed in the 13th century. Surrounding it is a unique and colorful cemetery of the locals. Here, they know where to be buried. The church is made of stone, the frescoes inside, and the simple crypt make it worth stopping for a visit.
In the town itself, there are shops, cafes, local restaurants, and a typical South Tyrolean atmosphere.
To meet the needs of children, it’s also a good idea to take the cable car up the mountain opposite, the Baranci mountain range, to the café at an altitude of 1635 m. This is a magical natural spot that allows for an easy hike through a small forest and several playground facilities for children. The way down can be done using an exciting mountain slide.
https://www.dolomiti.it/it/famiglia-e-bambini/fun-bob-ai-baranci-a-san-candido
Within a short distance, it’s worth visiting the Lake Braies (Lago di Braies).
From the main road of the valley ss49, between the town of Villabassa and Monguelfo-Tesido, a southern road leads to a magical natural experience, a lake with stunning colors, set among mountain ranges and surrounded by coniferous trees. You can hike a circular trail of about two hours at a leisurely pace that uplifts your spirit, and finish off with a picnic for lunch. It’s the realization of a vacation dream.
The towns of Dobbiaco (also known as Toblach in German) and Sesto (or Sexten in German) are also worth a stop, even if just briefly, to continue breathing in the mountain air and to enjoy the combination of nature and human craftsmanship.
In the town of Dobbiaco, you can visit the Grand Hotel, which also features a concert hall named after Gustav Mahler, the gifted Austrian composer.
Recommendation for a particularly luxurious hotel: https://www.badmoos.it/it/
Excellent spa, breathtaking views, one of the best restaurants with a rich buffet, heated pool, indoor and outdoor swimming amidst the mountains. Although it’s located at the edge of the valley and requires a car, the value is definitely worth it!
And if you prefer to stay in the city, try https://www.hotelpost-bruneck.com/de/hotel-post.html in the town center within walking distance to the pedestrian street, shops, cafés, and bars to enjoy at night.
Looking for family activities in the Dolomites? Here’s a perfect itinerary for a family experience:
Recommended itinerary in the Dolomites for families
